Making a Free Energy Generator Circuit - An Unsolved Issue


A request was sent to me by one of the readers Mr. Edward Pizzo (edpizzo@cox.net), regarding solving a circuit issue. The idea refers to a very interesting concept of acquiring free energy through a mechanism which once initiated keeps going  in quite a perpetual fashion. A charged battery #1 is used initially for starting an alternator which keeps running by utilizing the power from battery #1 and in the course generates enough power for running a few of the house appliances and for charging another battery #2. Once the earlier battery #1 gets discharged, the positions of the batteries (#1 and #2) are simply interchanged in order to keep the system running, almost forever.


Here goes the problem:

I am fairly good at building and fabricating
I went to school 20 years ago for electronics and communications what good that did me.


The issue is that I know enough to be dangerous but I just cant seem to get to the problem solving end of what I need done.

I have a bifilar coil circuit I need modified to incorporate a 10amp load at 110 volts where the neon light goes. I know how to series and parallel the batteries to get what i need, however I am at a loss to the rebuild of the circuit to step up the amperage I keep blowing things up. 

Here is the original circuit I was basing my design on.

Its iinspired from Bedinis concept of generating free energy. In my prototype I have a side of the circuit which runs a coil which in turn runs a motor while the other side recharges a battery.  When not charging I would like to run a motor where the 110 neon light goes.

Any help would be really appreciated. I would like to step this up to run on 24volts and 48 volts and eventually put a switching circuit in top monitor when a battery is charged to flip flop
So I can keep the batteries running continuously.

Im using size 22 and 18 wire gauge wire about a thousand turns for the iron filled coil to run the magnetic wheel I built

In its small scale it works flawlessly however I can not figure out how to step up the components to get the larger amperage through the circuit without blowing things up.

The coil wires are run together around a wood spool about a thousand turns then I have them stuffed with iron
In the center to make my core im using welding rod as the core. The magnetic motor is 12 magnets on a wheel all the poles facing in the same direction.
When you add your power supply the magnetic wheel starts spinning from the start coil, however the run side of the coil charges the secondary battery.
When the 2nd battery is disconnected the neon light turns on since I need to have that voltage go somewhere.
I keep putting bigger rated transistors but I keep burning up other parts of the circuit. If  I figure this out ill be able to run my house without the need of the power company.
That’s including running ac units as well. I don’t remember the guys name who designed the circuit I cant find his forum anywhere. It was 2 years ago and its been running
Continuously in my garage non stop. I finally decided to try and power things up with it by manipulating the way the coil works
Its been running for 2 years continuously  right now I manually switch the batteries from start to charge as one side charges the system the other drains it. This system actually puts out more
Voltage than it uses so there is always excess voltage keeping the charge side fully charged at all times.

I designed a stator that will run the house at a very low rpm so if I can solve this part of the circuit at the higher amp rating and be stable without burning up,
The electric company will be a thing of the past.

Ed
702-485-0716

My Analysis of the above explained free energy generator circuit:


The above idea looks good but it suggests a perpetual kind of mechanism, and as we all know a perpetual mechanism can  never be feasible.

The above idea might be working, but it can never produce 100% efficiency, not even 80%, I guess.

However I still appreciate the concept, even our commercial hydro power stations require gravitational force and huge amounts of water for implementing the operations, everything has a shortcoming and the present idea is not an exempt.

I am interested to know from Mr. Edward how the circuit would produce more current than what it's actually consuming in order to operate the house appliances?? That's looks too good to be true.

Because if this is true then the above idea could revolutionize the power generation concept.

Coming back to the actual issue, for acquiring greater amounts of currents I think we simply need to make the appropriate winding heavier proportionately. The batteries should also be matched as per the winding outputs.

If the above couple of things are optimized as per the needs, the over all rating of the unit may be increased to any desired limits.

The upgrading operations can be done with the help of a digital multi-tester, the outputs from the relevant winding may be checked and set by rotating them manually.

In place of transistor, a mosfet can be tried for better efficiency. 

Reply from Ed

There is always wear and tear of moving parts especially battery drain as long as I can keep the batteries from falling below 50% of their charge

I can keep them much longer than batteries that get fully depleted. I will provide a video where I can show you the voltage to keep the system turning
And the amount of voltage that charges the system I was not looking to get into a debate about any perpetual motion machines of that nature I am as skeptical as anyone.
And so I need to build and test most of the claims myself, however this one works exactly the way the designer intended it to work. The few modifications I made are based off an idea I wanted to play with at the time but was unable to complete due to me burning up parts of the circuit. The bifilar wire at the thousand turns with the size magnets im using are
Definitely key to my issues im having. However by using a smaller grade magnet say from radio shack im guessing have maybe a 5 or 10 ne  did not change the voltage  output, however when I switched to a 42ne magnet the voltage is consistent with the weaker or smaller magnets however the torque I developed changed which allowed me to redesign the system to incorporate a low rpm stator that can produce 1500kw which is enough to run appliances in exactly the same way a windmill runs a house or a farm. (challenge number 1 was creating enough torque on my primary circuit to overcome the cogging effect of the stator to spin
At the slowest possible rpm to produce the 1500kw. Challenge complete.)I was able to make the system large enough to do this but not without causing other issues.

Currently on this basic system I will show you it uses about 9 to 12 volts to run the system which is due to the state of the start battery or the run side of the circuit. The output side will be typically about 1- 1/2 to 2 volts higher.
I will grab my camera when I get off from work and I can show you the system running as designed its been running in my garage for a long time now the only thing I need to build would be a flip flop circuit based on the charge state of the run battery when it falls below battery number 2 by x percent or when battery 2 reaches full charge just have the circuit flip im not sure exactly how ill set that up yet.
The design I use for the house is based off this circuit but I have modified it to actually run faster and it has a lot more coils. However I keep burning things up with it. Hence my question to you as posted.
I know im missing something which is either very basic or not, I may need to add caps in places and possibly create filters to smooth out or level the output possibly. I need to learn about how to do that first so im learning as I build this circuit as well.(alternative option is to scrap this whole system to a more efficient motor in the future but I need to learn the fundamentals here first)

There will always be skeptics so until you build it yourself which would probably cost less than 50 dollars that’s 2 sizes of wire you only need about 500 turns the transistor 2 diodes they need to be different as for the timing and the pot to tune the performance and level the output. And some welding rod with no flux for your iron core the batteries can be from your cars or the ones I used are for a small motorcycle I had laying around.

I'm working on getting rid of the batteries altogether on the system for the house right now. But I still need a way to start the system, the stator uses a dc inverter looped back to keep the system running, but that blew up this weekend as well hence the email I sent you which started me looking for help.

The proposed free energy generator circuit is working I just don’t know enough about designing or redesigning electronic system to keep things from blowing up[(yet) time is also not on my side and I wish I knew more yesterday but I do not]. Im great and building the concepts and fabrication. I can build and weld and mill any parts I need to fulfill the mechanical end and I can build basic circuits to get specific outputs but I run into a challenge at this point in time in the depth of knowledge of why I need to have a specific component to make settle changes Or enhancements to a circuit. The more electronics however the more power drain the less efficiency.
I am  utilizing the KISS method just that the simple side of the equation has become more and more complicated as I keep building to fix minor issues to solve minor issues. The stupid part of the equation I have no shortage of and seems to be well in place. I know its staring me in the face but im missing some piece of the puzzle that can make this come together.


Here is that video



 I’m using a duel tabletop grinder for the bearings which run forever and are really sturdy. So there’s never a need for belts or pully’s like you see on many other
Systems.

I use the primary system to run the secondary.  I can get the secondary system to actually power the primary once its running and at speed. All this system does is produce power and spin the magnets with enough torque to power the secondary. The secondary doesn't care what’s being run from it as long as the primary is up to speed to overcome the clogging.

The issue is I need to stop burning up the components long enough to make this useful. I can get a about 6 or 7 minutes before things start to fry and its running a 7.2amp ac unit at 110 volts about a
Dozen lights at 100w so I have more than power off the secondary stator to back feed and run a small 24v or 48 v system but I cant get the primary stable at that voltage.  Im sure this part is childs play for most of you.
So with your help maybe we can get this up and running.

About Me (Edward Pizzo)

I've worked on many projects over the years some professionally and others like this as a hobby and research for better ideas to help.

The environment and the people associated with it.  But it’s a mystery how brainwashed most people get. I have a car that runs on water and no one wants anything to do  with it. Now I have a device that will probably run a house for life for free and no one will be interested in it. I hear all of the crying
For help everyday but when offered its all dismissed as a scam. I guess if I packaged it and sold it in a box for $4000 maybe it would make people want it.
That way I could pay an engineer to figure out the missing pieces and make yearly updates to my system. I have a neighbor who just spent $52,000 to put Solar on his roof. I showed him my system and said ill build him one just pay for the parts under $1200 he told me sorry it wont work. ????? and hes still has to pay the power company .
I'm at a loss

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